Mario Testino.
In the world of applied arts, the saukele occupies a special place. The Karakalpak saukele is an exquisite ceremonial headdress, intricately adorned with coral and semi-precious stones. It was worn by the daughters of wealthy tribal aristocracy during wedding ceremonies in the 19th century. The saukele was a symbol of status and elegance, reflecting the traditions and culture of its time. Unfortunately, the tradition of using this magnificent headdress ceased in the early 20th century. Today, saukeles have become real rarities: no more than 7 examples have survived in the museums of Nukus and St. Petersburg, representing a unique heritage of Karakalpak culture and art.
The saukele is not just a headdress. It is a living memory of the traditions, culture, and courage of the Karakalpak people. This exquisite ceremonial headdress originally served as a battle helmet for young women who defended their people during the era of the Saka-Massagetes and Sarmatians-Alans.
Over time, the saukele transformed into a symbol of the wedding celebration. Decorated with the finest embroidery, silver plates, and exquisite precious stones, the saukele became not only a source of pride but also an important element of the cultural identity of Karakalpak women.
Each detail of this magnificent headdress carries echoes of history and a profound connection to traditions, making the saukele not just an accessory, but a true work of art that embodies the historical memory of an entire nation.
The saukele from the collection of the Karakalpak State Museum of Arts named after I.V. Savitsky was donated to the museum by Gulzira Allambergenova, a resident of the village of "Togyz Tore" in the Kazakdarya rural council of the Muynak district. This headdress, which had been kept in the family for many years and belonged to her mother, became a symbol of continuity and deep respect for traditions.
At the time of its transfer to the museum, the saukele was in poor condition, but thanks to the skill of restorers Margarita Pavlovna Ryabova and Tatyana Alexandrovna Goroshko, it received new life in the workshop named after academician I.E. Grabar in Moscow. Now, this masterpiece of applied art captivates the eye, preserving the spirit of the time and the rich history of the Karakalpaks.
Russian scientist M.S. Andreev asserted that the word "saukele" has a complex origin and is not of Turkic descent, but has an ancient Iranian origin, formed from the word "shah", meaning king, and "kelle", meaning hat or head. He also noted that in the Turkic Kipchak languages, such as Karakalpak or Kazakh, this word has phonetically transformed into "saukele". Alternative interpretations are based on the word "sau", which means health in Turkic languages.
The saukele performed three key functions. Its majestic appearance and rich adornment announced to the gathered guests the high status of the bride, emphasizing her significance in society. It also concealed the bride's hair, which was related to ancient pagan beliefs in which a woman's hair was seen as a conduit for evil spirits. It was believed that these spirits could penetrate the bride's body and mind, threatening her future family life. This unique headdress possessed protective qualities. The red color, as well as semi-precious stones such as coral and turquoise, are traditionally considered strong amulets against the evil eye and diseases. These elements, included in the design of the saukele, serve not only as decoration but also as symbols of protection.
Carnelian, often found in jewelry, symbolizes prosperity and happiness along one's life path. Carnelian, often found in jewelry, symbolizes prosperity and happiness along one's life journey.
Thus, the saukele is a multifunctional element that infuses the wedding ceremony with deep meaning. It not only adorns the bride but also embodies her status, protecting her from malevolent forces and fostering harmony in her new life. This element is an important part of the cultural identity of Karakalpak women and reflects their rich heritage and traditions passed down through generations.
